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Stephen Todd

As we are now talking about the hot end temperature, and not the bed temperature - I'd check that the thermistor is fully inside the hot end block, and not moving around

There may be a thermi…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
<div>Re. "I can add it to every startup g-code" - in that case just add it to the slicer g-code start box - it will then run automatically for everything you print without you having to do it …

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
With the printer unplugged, using a multi-meter, you can check the thermistor leads where they
plug into the board - the pins of the lead should measure 100k ohm at
room temperature of 20c,…

Thanked by 2Samuel Pinches JamesMcc_Design
Best commonly used layer heights for JGAurora are:
.12
.2
<div>.3
</div><div>
</div>

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
Looking at the photos, its a similar situation as I faced with A3s - I mounted an additional fan and duct onto the heat break block from the front - in your case it would have to be the metal fan cas…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
A video of A5 mainboard and wiring:
https://youtu.be/3yrqUMfoY-0

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
If you mess up, it is likely the bootloader that will get corrupted - you then can't connect via arduino IDE - I did that by not unplugging my display board - but there are ways to re-load a new boot…

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
Re. Once I mount the board in, do I also plug everything in?

The wiring is going to be different, but things work the same - the original board had lots of loose wiring that had ID labels so …

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
Re. • Use a flash drive in the USB port on the board for flashing the board in preparation for the A5/AS5 components?

You must first unplug the data cable to the display board, or the flash …

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
Re. The SD card for flashing the TFT LCD v4 goes in the hidden slot on LCD

Yes, you put a SD card in there and power on the printer - display board automatically goes into firmware update mode

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
Would make a great youtube video - cheap 32 bit 3D printer upgrade would get lots of views - affiliate link to aliexpress of course :)

Thanked by 2giantrobot2001 Samuel Pinches
Yes, he could also 3D print a front mounted or hand held case and go to 3.5 inch display - MKS have new 7 inch display as well

Lots of info on messing with MKS boards and displays - main thin…

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
I'd probably go with a kit:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33057853469.html

The above kit has improved stepper drivers than came with the A5, but apart from having to also flash the …

Thanked by 2giantrobot2001 Samuel Pinches
As you say you can preheat and extrude, it is likely a slicer problem - but you could make sure there is no blockage by detaching the empty bowden tube from the cold end, heat to 220 and manually pus…

Thanked by 1Mathieu Grumplefix Evain
I mess with air rifles, and spring cutting, coil collapsing, grinding, polishing, pre-tensioning with packing washers for power adjustment is all part of the fun - but its easier with bigger springs<…

Thanked by 11TxMarvel
You could stretch the spring, then heat with a blowtorch till glowing, then quench in oil - that will set it - but I know that it is a standard spring, as somebody said they found a replacement easil…

Thanked by 11TxMarvel
A tinkerer's paradise

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1047297

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
Both the controller board and LCD are custom parts - JGAurora can charge whatever they think they can get away with - you can't buy the parts from anyone else

The original A5 and A3s use read…

Thanked by 2Samuel Pinches giantrobot2001
If you have adjusted the stepper voltages to the upper limit, then its physical resistance inside the bowden tube, or insufficient pressure on the feeding gear (weak spring, cracked/deformed pressure…

Thanked by 11TxMarvel
As you hear it when loading filament, I'd try tuning the extruder motor stepper driver, but I'm now thinking that its something mechanical

I'd suspect something is worn out - either the whole…

Thanked by 11TxMarvel
15 amps is plenty of power - my V1 A3s came with a weedy power brick that burnt out in 3 days as it was under powered, so I upgraded to 15 amps

I'd check the voltages on the stepper drivers a…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
Are you using the original power brick, or did you upgrade to a more powerful PSU?

Thanked by 11TxMarvel
I'd be looking at a removable flexible build sheet - then you can remove the sheet and flex it to get the part free when it goes cold

I print PLA on a thin film of PVA - PVA wood/fabric glue …

Thanked by 1JamesMcc_Design
Something that doesn't get mentioned much is that both the bed and nozzle must be at printing temperature before leveling the bed, otherwise the air gap will reduce when things warm up

Mesh b…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
Clicking through a zipped folder would not usually do anything but access the files individually

What you should do is download a zip file to your desktop, then right click on it and select "…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
I also think the printer has data read problems - I can't think of any other explanation that he can print over USB with JGcreate, but not a newer version of Cura - he says with Cura the progress bar…

Thanked by 2Samuel Pinches giantrobot2001
Think I found the solution - someone wrote:
<div><div><p>"I
imported my stl into mesh mixer and had mesh mixer generate its tree
supports. Then exported it back to an …

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
I'm no expert on using support, and I sometimes have problems with support removal - but it seems that the newest versions of Cura have far better support options than the old versions have - so you …

Thanked by 2giantrobot2001 Samuel Pinches
The feed end of the white ptfe bowden tube - you can see the filament goes through the feeder, and into the bowden tube when you press down on the release lever and push the filament through by hand<…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
There are other missing parts - the bowden tube and quick release adaptor

Looking at your first photo - you have a threaded hole - there should be a metal part screwed into that hole called a…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
My A3s V1 has a type A USB port for memory sticks - but I have various adaptors that convert SD and micro SD to type A USB - I also have a few memory sticks that work well with the printer, so I have…

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
3D printer controller board and screen will operate if you have the printer plugged into a USB power source such as a laptop - but motors and heaters will not have enough power to operate

Are…

Thanked by 1Stuart George Damon
I have sliced using various free slicers and I used to print over USB using pronterface, as I find the file system of the touch display to be pathetic - you can't identify the individual files if you…

Thanked by 2giantrobot2001 Samuel Pinches
I have the A3s with "non-stick" build plate - I use water diluted PVA wood/fabric adhesive - 1 part glue to 3 parts water - rollered on with a small paint roller then bed warmed up to dry before prin…

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
I'd unplug the printer and unplug and re-plug all the cables in the control box - could be an intermittent wiring fault

Can you operate the printer using pronterface and USB cable, or does it…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
In port settings there is a drop down list when you click the box opening thingy - select a higher baud rate

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
The thermistor can be tested with a multi-meter from the input plugs - you should get a reading of 100k ohm at 20c, and fall in resistance if you heat it with a hair drier

The thermistor is l…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
The motor is unlikely to be slipping - more likely to be the belt in the control box needs tightening

The heater cartridge is a standard part on most 3D printers - except you need a 24 volt o…

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
Windows will now see the printer thanks to the Ch340g driver, and windows device manager will tell you the port number assigned to the printer - right click the printer and second tab is where you se…

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
Yes, been thinking about an A1 for past 6 months - can get one from aliexpress vendor's UK warehouse for £232 with guaranteed 10 days or less delivery - will likely buy one, despite having serious do…

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
The A3s is very solid - the A5 printers are the ones that wobble - got to be the length of the uprights

I've seen various fixes, but I'd be looking at securing the top of the frame, rather th…

Thanked by 1giantrobot2001
Instead of printing over USB cable, plug a SD card into your computer and save to the card instead - then plug the SD card into the printer and see if it prints from that

You could also downl…

Thanked by 1danielpy
Without knowing the bed you ordered, I'd say it is a dual voltage bed like in the photo, i.e. can be wired for 12v or 24v by removing and re-positioning the thick wires

It should really be sc…

Thanked by 1NicolaGibson